Wood lathe tool sharping




















Sharpening your wood lathe tools can be quite a chore. First, you have quite a number of tools but you also probably have a variety of different types of tools. Chisels and gouges are often different in shapes and sizes. Whether you simply sharpen as needed or schedule a sharpening time for all of these tools regularly is up to you. In this guide, we will walk you through step-by-step instructions on how to properly sharpen your wood lathe tools. Once you have the basic process down, you can pretty much follow those steps for just about any tool.

Before we get started, here is a quick video tutorial for sharpening woodturning tools that you might find handy as well for visual aid. When you look at tutorials and instructions for sharpening your wood lathe tools, it is typically recommended that you sharpen them using a grinder. This is because it just makes the process simple and so much faster.

On the same note, you can sharpen them without a grinder and you will see both of those processes here. Metal Lathe. Your tools might also be in a variety of shapes and sizes as well. While you will most likely have your favorites and the tools that you use the most, you need to keep all of your tools sharp and be prepared to sharpen all of them as needed.

You very well may find that you have tools outside of these ranges or a number of tools that fall into each of these categories as well. If you have tools that perhaps fit into other categories, you should be able to take the details and steps you learn here and put them to work with other types of tools as well. You will find the steps are primarily similar across the board with some different techniques that are designed to cater to the materials or the shapes of the wood lathe tool in question.

A scraper will most noticeably be sharper based on touch. With caution, you can easily run your finger over that rounded scraper edge and notice a significant difference to a sharpened and honed scraper as opposed to a dull scraper.

It is very important that your scraper be appropriately sharpened as that sharp edge is what allows you to really get a smooth surface when you are turning wood. A sharp scraper will have a wiry feel to it, or perhaps even a burr when it is nice and sharp. Scrapers have to be sharpened the most often to maintain that burr but they are also quick and easy to sharpen as well.

Parting tools are very unique and they serve a specific purpose. These tools separate waste from the actual project.

You will use them particularly if you create a mortise for turning bowls, cups, and other similar items but they can have some other uses as well. Parting tools have a sharp point at the end and then the rest of the tool is similar to a scraper. That edge allows the tool to cut but the unique design also allows the tool to scrape in motion as well. While we mentioned diamond parting tools here, just know that these also come in fluted and flat varieties as well.

The diamond is the best starting point, which is why we placed our focus there on this guide. Diamond parting tools are beveled to a degree angle. You will find that they can be beveled to less but we recommend sticking close to this as they last longer and are easy to maintain as well. The roughing gouges are commonly also known as spindle roughing gouges for the most part. There are several types of gouges so be sure to watch the terminology to know what you are working with.

The roughing gouge is used to make a blank into a cylinder and can come in handy for turning shapes as well. These gouges are not meant for bowls but primarily for spindles, which is where the term spindle roughing gouge comes in here.

These can be sharpened to a degree anywhere from and work just fine. They are very unique in shape so you have the square edge and then the large blade edge, which is what you will be sharpening to the proper degree. The spindle gouge is different from the spindle roughing gouge by design.

The skew chisel is my go-to tool for most spindle turning. It can be used not only to shape, but also to finish cylinders, V-grooves, beads, and long concave curves. Since it is a finish-surface tool, a skew must be razor literally, hair-shaving sharp.

Rather than using a grinder, I prefer shaping the bevels on either a disc or belt sander outfitted with grit abrasive. Unlike a wheel, these machines maintain the flat bevel. Note: To avoid any chance of fire, remove sawdust from the sander and surrounding area. Repeat this procedure on the opposite face.

After grinding both faces, check the bevels, and then make any necessary adjustments so that both bevels are the same length. After grinding, you'll need to hone the edge. A few passes on each side should do the trick. These days, I also keep a diamond paddle in my apron pocket.

This accessory provides a handy way to touch up an edge before making a finishing cut. I find that I can re-hone an edge several times before needing to regrind it. The trick is knowing when a tool needs a touch-up, before the damage is done. The ability to tell the difference requires a certain amount of experience, especially since some woods are harder to turn than others.

One quick way to determine whether a tool is sharp or not is by dragging its edge across your thumbnail. Nick Cook is a founding member of the American Association of Woodturners, and conducts woodturning workshops across the country. You must be logged in to write a comment. Log In. Find a Store.

My Account. My Cart. Go to Home Page. Mobile Navigation. Same Day Shipping Find a Store. Search Go. Topics Cabinetry. Choosing Hardware. Dust Collection. Friends of Woodcraft. Getting Started with Woodworking. Make Something. Pen Kit Reference Chart. Press Releases. Resin Casting. Shop Talk. Woodcraft Magazine. Woodworking Adventures. Download PDF.

Fast and easy strategies for safer, smoother cuts Many pieces of furniture require turned elements, such as legs, spindles, columns, and pulls. Lower the tip of the tool onto the grinding wheel for a few seconds.

Turn the tool over and do the opposite side for the same amount of time. Never put the tool below the center of the wheel. Sweep tools like chisels back and forth so that you get an even sharp edge. For some tools, a minute or less is sufficient. For large tools, it may take five to ten minutes to get every edge. You can also use a felt pen to check the angle. It colors the tip of the chisel or other tool to make sure it is making contact with the gouge.

A good wood lathe is very important for better work.



0コメント

  • 1000 / 1000